Day 115 (September 1st)
Mile 2466.7 – 2485.2
Today: 18.5 miles
Total PCT: 2030.0 miles
Waking up in a warm, cozy bed is a luxury I will never take for granted again. This morning I woke up slowly and lounged in my giant bed all to myself. When I finally decided to wake up, I flipped around and laid on my back with my legs up the wall for 10 minutes. I set an alarm and everything, hoping that raising my feet might help to reduce the painful swelling that walking all day, everyday has caused. It actually did help!
We ate our breakfasts, packed our bags and did our last minute town chores (like booking our flights from Vancouver back to LA in a couple weeks). I made a hitching sign with a flap at the bottom so that we could flash a ‘please’ at any cars that passed by. We hoped the dynamic (and polite!) sign might make people more willing to stop and take us the 40 minutes down the highway to get back on trail.
It worked! Firefighter Leroy stopped and picked us up and very kindly went out of his way, beyond his destination, to drop us off. We got back on trail just before noon and immediately headed up several thousand feet of climb. About 4 miles in, we were stopped by a hiker coming he other direction who told us there were bears on trail just ahead. Sure enough, as we walked on we came upon a mother black bear and her three small cubs. They were gorging on huckleberries right next to the trail and seemed unperturbed by our presence or our scare tactics (stern cries of ‘woah bear’ and clapping our hands). Mom kept an eye on us, but stayed relaxed and went on munching, so we walked past peaceably to leave them to their snacking.
The rest of the day was uneventful. Just 18 slow miles of big climbs and big descents. My feet seem to have finally realized what exactly I have been putting them through these past few months and are in full protest. Hills I used to run down now require careful steps and great reliance on my trekking poles to navigate. It is a bit sad to feel so slow and cumbersome after feeling so proud of my 30, 35 and even 50 mile day(s) back in Oregon.
I know if my feet would just improve I could hike faster again, but as it is I usually arrive to camp well after Salty and Thunder. I am fortunate that they are always kind enough to encourage me and even help me set up camp if I arrive particularly late. Today Salty blew up my sleeping pad for me so I could start cooking dinner before dark. I am trying not to let my dissatisfaction with my late arrivals at camp impact my overall enjoyment of the trail. My feet are what they are and as long as the pain feels manageable, I want to continue getting the most out of this experience that I can.
Day 116 (September 2nd)
Mile 2485.2 – ?
Today: ~26 miles
Total PCT: ~2040.0 miles– currently unclear because we are on an impromptu fire detour.
The morning started with beautiful blue skies and a sunrise over the lake next to our campground. We enjoyed ample water access on our morning hike, which was a relief since it meant we could lighten up our heavy backpacks by carrying less water. Our morning snack break location even had a glorious thunder box for pondering life’s biggest questions during your morning poop.
Things took a turn right before lunch. We were about 4 miles from our lunch spot when we came across some flagging tape blocking our path. Pinned to a tree next to the tape was a sign reading “fire closure”. We learned from other hikers that a ranger had closed the PCT ahead of us *less than an hour before we arrived* due to a small fire burning about 300ft off trail. Only about 7 miles of trail were closed, but since this trail is in the middle of the woods, this meant a 20 mile detour to hike around the closure and back on the PCT. Posted below the fire closure sign was a low resolution picture of the detour.
Unfortunately, with no cell service (and no hope of finding any) we had to make do with the maps we had downloaded, which showed only part of the detour trail and showed very little in terms of water access, elevation, or campsites. We have gotten very used to our PCT hiker app which gives us all this information, so going without was a bit of a shock. Another shock came as soon as we left the PCT– a very steep climb up a rocky bluff, reminding us that the PCT is, in fact, graded for livestock and so is usually not too steep.
It was a beautiful detour, with lunch at Blue Lake and a long afternoon ridge walk with panoramic views. We knew we wanted to get to a river we saw on the map to camp, but without knowing exactly how far it was, it made for a demoralizing evening. Coupled with a very steep descent at the end of the day, I was exhausted and sore when I arrived at camp, in the dark, around 8pm. We are still camped on the detour and will make our way back to the main trail tomorrow.
Somewhat fortunately, we all over packed our food bags this resupply– so we don’t anticipate that the extra miles will be a problem! Everyone cross your fingers and toes for no more fires (at least until we tag the border)!
Day 117 (September 3rd)
Mile ? – 2520.5
Today: ~26 miles
Total PCT: 2065.3 miles
The trail provides, and right now, the trail is providing adversity.
The first 10 miles of our day were still on the fire closure detour that we started yesterday. Over 20 miles of hiking just to bypass a 7 mile stretch we could have hiked in a little over 2 hours. After a steep, 4500ft climb, we finally regained the PCT and sat to have our snack break. As we sat there, no less than 6 people walked up the closed trail and past us. We asked them if they had seen the fire and they said yes. We asked them if they had seen the trail closure signs and they said yes, but that they thought it would be fine to hike on. We were filled with righteous indignation at their blasé attitude to a fire closure, but we were also frustrated that we had lost nearly an entire day on the detour.
The detour was beautiful, but much steeper and longer than what we would have done otherwise. We comforted ourselves by telling us that we did the right thing, regardless of what others are doing. Hiking on a closed trail is risky, and if anything had happened we would have been putting first responders at risk as well.
We hiked on, enjoying a long downhill (which we would need to regain). I knew there was a big river crossing coming up, and was a bit nervous. I asked Salty and Thunder to wait for me if they thought the crossing was at all risky, so that we could cross together. When I finally arrived at the river, they were sitting there waiting for me. Salty actually crossed back to my side of the river to guide me across. As we crossed back, I stepped over a long and stumbled and I felt him grab my backpack. “Are you okay?” I asked, assuming he had stumbled too. He responded “I am holding on to you!”. I’m sure I could have crossed this river on my own, but I am so grateful that my friends thought to wait for me.
Next up a 6 mile climb– and to really show us some love, the PCT gave us rain. I was soaking wet by the time I arrived at camp, slipping and sliding on the muddy uphill and falling on my butt as I climb over blowdowns.
Fortunately, the rain abated for a few minutes and I was able to set up my tent and dive inside. I do feel very challenged by the conditions on trail right now, but regardless, we are still moving closer and closer to Canada!!
Day 118 (September 4th)
Mile 2520.5 – 2543.3
Today: 22.8 miles
Total PCT: 2088.1 miles
This morning started with an early morning conference from our sleeping bags as we listened to the pitter patter of rain on our tents: “Who wants to sleep in?” says Salty. Thunder and I respond affirmativly and we all reset our alarms for 6:30am instead of our usual 5:45am. The rain mostly abated by the time we were up and at it, but it left behind a wet, misty fog and soaking wet vegetation. My shorts (which never fully dried from last night) were soaking again within moments.
We hiked together in the morning, chatting –among other topics– about our favourite Survivor players. We wonder if playing Survivor is easier than hiking the PCT…. After a long descent and subsequent 2500ft climb, we get a few glimpses of blue skies and real sunlight.
We found some rocks to sit on and unpack our sopping bags and lay out our gear to dry. Thank goodness for an hour of partial sun, or I would be camping in a very soggy tent tonight.
We split up in the afternoon and I began my slow, long descent. Descents are torture for my feet, so I took it slowly and carefully. The trail was tough at first but eased into a more gentle incline as the evening progressed with only the constant, gigantic blow downs to slow me down. As it got dark, I navigated the blow downs like a jungle gym– climbing over, bushwhacking around, or — in a couple of instances– taking off my backpacking and slithering under on my stomach while pushing my bag ahead of me. Some of the blow downs were 1.5 meters or more in diameter and so tall that they were impossible to walk around. I felt like I was bouldering as I maneuvered these monsters with my heavy backpack. We chose to have a shorter day of hiking due to our sleep in this morning and our drying out break this afternoon, but I still arrived well after dark. I am tired, but honestly still in good spirits– at least there wasn’t mosquitoes or rain!
Day 119 (September 5th)
Mile 2543.3 -2569.4
Today: 26.1 miles
Total PCT: 2114.2 miles
Today was just a really nice day– not totally what I was expecting with a 5000ft climb to start the day… But the climb was gentle and long (about 12 miles), and the incline left me feeling like I was out for a pleasant walk rather than climbing a mountain.
Salty’s ankle was bugging him, so he was going a little slower than usual and we actually got to walk together for a while. It’s been a while since we had a Salty and Beetle episode, so I really enjoyed this time. We chatted about our normal schedule at home, what we miss most, how he will decorate his new apartment when he gets back to Germany. It was lovely. As we made Suiattle Pass, we walked out of the trees into full sunshine and views! Did you know Washington has views other than fog and smoke? We met up with Thunder for lunch and enjoyed our food with a beautiful view. And then it was time for our long descent. The three of us hiked together again, chatting and telling stories, which always makes time fly. Fortunately, there were far fewer blow downs than yesterday and the descent was so gentle that it was, for the most part, painless. I walked happily looking a mushrooms, watching the grey jays and listening to the sounds of angry squirrels. Most exciting of all, I made it to camp by 6:45pm– before 7pm and before dark. It’s been a while since I got to eat dinner in daylight… In fact, this is the first time in a week! It was nice to have a pleasant day and lots of reminders of why I love this trail and this experience.
On another note, I have re-encountered a mystery that I first discovered on the West Coast Trail in 2018. What makes these little smiley faces in these leaves??!
Given the state of my feet and the colder temperatures we are experiencing, I have been toying with the idea that I probably don’t have another 30 days of good weather or another 450 miles of reserves in me. Lots of folks we have met are opting not to go back to hike the Sierras and to simply come back another year. This idea has captured my mind a little. It’s not that I want to leave trail– I miss home and my dear partner , but the idea of going home and having to find a job, make decisions, and generally re-enter reality is terrifying!
The simplicity of walking all day in beautiful environments with people I love is so alluring, despite any amount of pain. And I also hate the idea of leaving this journey ‘unfinished’. But is it unfinished?
Due to another fire closure ahead of us, I know at this point that it will be impossible to hike every mile of this beautiful trail this year. With that in mind, I am stuck thinking about what a successful thru hike looks like to me. I don’t want to keep trekking on just out of habit. I don’t want to wait until I am not having fun anymore or I have no more good days. I want to end on a high note and to feel content and proud of what I have accomplished.
I am unsure of what the resolution of these feelings will be. What I do know is that we are only 80 miles from the border and currently about 40 of those miles are closed due to a fire. Not long now!
Day 120 (September 6th)
Mile 2569.4 – 2574.6
Today: 5.2 miles
Total PCT: 2119.4 miles
We have officially made it to the fire closure that is blocking our way to Canada. We hiked a quick 5 miles this morning to make it to the start of the closure and to a shuttle that would take us into the tiny town of Stehekin on the picturesque shores of Lake Chelan.
From there, Thunder and I chose to take the ferry into the town of Chelan, from where we will hitch hike to the end of the closure. I took some motion sickness meds and then fought to stay awake on the ferry so that I could enjoy the beautiful views of the cliffs, trees and water. It was a stunning trip!
Instead of joining us, Salty will be hiking the alternate route that is suggested by the PCTA. This alternate route is 40 miles longer than the actual PCT and we have heard mixed reviews about its level of maintenance (read tons of blow downs) and how difficult the terrain is. Ultimately, I decided that the extra 20 miles I already hiked will make up for this bit of closed trail and that I don’t need a ‘continuous footpath’ to feel like a thru hiker. Thunder and I will relax and refresh in town for a couple days to give Salty time to complete the alternate, and then we will all continue on to the border together. 🙂
The hardest part of my day today was dealing with the aftermath of my wasp stings, that I forgot to mention in my post yesterday! While innocently hiking, I was attacked by wasps (who were presumably protecting a nearby hive) and received two stings– one on my leg and one on my neck. Today my leg was swollen and sore and all the glands in my neck and armpits are inflamed– and I am left feeling betrayed by waspkind.
For now, I am resting my feet, treating my wounds and enjoying my time in the town of Chelan!
