Day 103 (August 20th)
Mile 2231.6 – 2256.4
Today: 24.8 miles
Total PCT: 1801.2 miles
Being back on trail today felt great! I am still struggling with foot pain, but overall I was grooving for most of the day. Despite getting back to trail around 8:30am (about 2 hours later than usual) we still managed to cover lots of ground and break the 1800 mile mark! This morning we awoke to smoky air and a bright red sunrise at the church in Trout Lake and headed back to the general store for coffee and to wait for our shuttle back to trail.
For the past few weeks, Corpse has been having trouble with his backpack hip belt, as it no longer provides good support and places too much weight on his shoulders. Miraculously, there was an advertisement for a sewist in Trout Lake who was available to help hikers out with such things. Auntie Karen took his backpack last night around 8:30pm and delivered it back to him, fixed, this morning before we caught the 8am shuttle! So incredibly kind!
Back on trail, we all hiked together for a while talking about favourite childhood movies. Usually we go our separate ways when one of us needs to pee, or we hit an uphill or so on– but today we all stuck together and waited for each other. The smoke was quite bad all day on trail, blocking our views of Mt. Adams and making our throats dry. No one seems to know which fire is causing the smoke, but we are hopeful that it will blow away soon. While sitting eating our morning snack, we heard a loud rumbling and crashing in the distance that we guessed might have been a small avalanche on the mountain– but due to the smoke, we weren’t able to see for sure.
After lunch, we went our separate ways for the afternoon. I enjoyed listening to a couple episodes of The Moth and I mentally considered all the personal stories I have collected on this hike. So many!
At camp, we were joined by two Canadians from Montreal who we have been hiking around the last couple days: Chopsticks and Speedstick. There was also a very bold Canada Jay that was willing to fly down and take food from our hands! Overall, it was an enchanting day and I am so happy to be back on trail. 🙂
Day 104 (August 21st)
Mile 2256.4 – 2282.6
Today: 26.2 miles
Total PCT: 1827.4 miles
Washington is beautiful! We entered the Goat Rock Wilderness today where we enjoyed beautiful alpine meadows, curious marmots, and the stunning Knife’s Edge!
It has been so nice to take it a little easier these past few days with smaller mileage and more time in the evening to relax. We’ve also been taking more sit down snack breaks during the day, which means I get to spend more time than usual with my tramily, just relaxing and enjoying each other’s company.
Today we hiked together for most of the afternoon and we went crazy taking photos of eachother on the stunning landscape that was Knife’s Edge– an area of trail where the path follows the ridge of the mountain with steep slopes on either side.
Lately, I just feel like I am having the best time on trail. I love this place, these people, and how I feel right now! Whistling at marmots, causing minor rockslides on sandy cliffside paths, laughing with my tram, listening to my tent flap in the wind, wondering if three bars is enough food to get me the 15 miles to town tomorrow, cuddling with the tram to keep warm during dinner… All these things bring me more joy than I can put to words. Trail life is good.
P.S. Mom! I met the Codgers today!!
Day 105 (August 22nd)
Mile 2282.6 – 2304.5
Today: 21.9 miles
Total PCT: 1849.3 miles
I awoke to my tent flapping as the cold wind assaulted my tent. It was still dark out and I could feel the chill, though my sleeping bag was cozy. Not the most appealing weather to wake up to. After some contemplation, I decided I really did have to get up, so I packed up my warm sleeping bag and went about my morning chores. When I climbed out of my tent, I was greeted by the very welcome sight of clear skies! The smoke has blown away and we had nice blue skies all day today!
As a result, I was in a great mood all morning as we hiked into White Pass to resupply. I sang Disney songs, and enjoyed the beautiful views of Mount Rainier. During our morning break, Thunder, Salty, and I watched as Corpse tried to rock scramble up a rocky spire. He ultimately slid back down on his bottom saying that it was too steep.
We made it to White Pass around lunch time. White Pass really just consists of one building: a gas station and convenience store. They provided shaded picnic tables to hikers and offered paid laundry, showers, and some hot food. There wasn’t anything vegan, so I ended up buying a microwaveable vegan meal for my lunch from the freezer section. We took an extended lunch break to unpack our mailed resupply boxes, wash our socks in the outdoor sink, eat some food and relax. We opted out of laundry and a shower– it’s only been 3 days since Trout Lake and we don’t think we smell that bad! We headed out around 4pm for another few miles before making camp next to Pipe Lake. It’s been so cold today, that I opted not to swim, though the lake was beautiful. We have also been warned about people getting sick from the water in this section, so I am being extra careful about contamination. We all got our bear cans today, so I’ve added an unwelcome couple of pounds to my back. Bear safe food storage is newly required in this area, but most hikers seem to have missed (or are ignoring) this rule.
Day 106 (August 23rd)
Mile 2304.5 – 2332.2
Today: 27.7 miles
Total PCT: 1877.0 miles
It’s been very cool on trail the past couple of days. We have shivered over our dinners and hiked wearing rain jackets or puffies for warmth. Today was, perhaps, a little warmer than yesterday, but it was still cold enough that my hands were cold all day and I would shiver everytime I stopped for a break. We walked around and through clouds sitting low on the mountains, but luckily they weren’t too dense and so we at least avoided being wet. Despite the cold and fog, the views were beautiful!
We had planned to camp at a tent site a couple miles back which supposedly had room for four tents, but at lunchtime we ran into several other people who were aiming for that tent site. The trail seemed to be a thin, cliffside path for several before and after this tent site, so we guessed that there would be a lot of competition for this spot. We were right. By the time we arrived at 6:30pm, there were already four tents in place. We decided to hike on until we found somewhere suitable. Tonight, Thunder, Salty and I are camped tightly together in a small sand patch above the trail. Corpse was ahead of me and decided to hike on to the next tentspot so that I would have a place to set up.
Just as we were about to get into our tents we were visited by a very curious owl, who flew in circles above us, partially obscured by the fog, for several minutes.
Day 107 (August 24th)
Mile 2332.2 – 2358.1
Today: 25.9 miles
Total PCT: 1902.9 miles
Today I was feeling a bit ill, and I’ve got to say, hiking 26 miles is not the best way to feel better.
Hikers have told us that this section of trail is notorious for some kind of waterborne illness– I have been double treating my water and I am crossing my fingers that that is not the cause of my illness. Still, I got through the day with some laughs, a good audio book, and some reminders that I am tough! Fortunately, the sun was much warmer today, so I at least didn’t have to deal with being cold all day.
In the morning we passed a hiking group with several llamas. While I pet the llamas, the leader told me that it was actually a group for hikers with Parkinson’s. The llamas would carry the bulk of the gear, making it easier for these folks to get out in the backcountry. Very cool!
The rest of the day was pretty quiet. We walked through a long burn area with little to see (though a sign told us that the burn was from a fire in 1988– not much seems to have grown back). I am very happy to be cozy in my sleeping bag tonight! Fingers crossed I am feeling better tomorrow!
Day 108 (August 25th)
Mile 2358.1 – 2384.1
Today: 26.0 miles
Total PCT: 1928.9 miles
Tonight is our last night on trail with our dear Corpsi. His girlfriend is flying in from Belgium to visit him, and so he will be getting off trail for a couple of weeks to spend time with her. In that time, the rest of us will reach the Northern Terminus and head back to the Sierras to finish up our last section. After nearly 2000 miles together, it is hard to imagine hiking this trail without him. His big smile, sentimentality, and cheekiness will be sorely missed. But we still have a day in town to spend together and even after that, I know that I will see him again. I am so fortunate to have made such wonderful friends on this journey and I know an ocean will not be enough to keep us apart.
Today was a bit boring in terms of views, but it was a lovely day in terms of temperature and time spent with loved ones. Thunderstorms threatened this morning and Thunder and I hiked together fretting about the crashes of thunder and possible forest fires started by the lightning strikes. While there was lots of thunder, we didn’t end up getting rained on and the day ultimately warmed up to a comfortable temperature for hiking. The tram had our snack and lunch breaks together– as well as several water breaks. We chatted and joked and laughed over an incredible range of topics.
Sometimes hiking the PCT feels like elementary school– when else do you get to spend all day with your friends, laughing and goofing off?
Tonight the four of us are squeezed into a tiny tent site that was advertised as fitting two tents. I love this little group so much!
Day 109 (August 26th)
Mile 2384.1 – 2395.8
Today: 11.7 miles
Total PCT: 1940.6 miles
The hike into town today was only 12 miles, but it was hard! The trail was all uneven rocks and big steps up or down– but by 11am I made it to the tiny ski resort town of Snoqualmie Pass.
I bought my standard town-day iced chai latte and then we decided to try and hitch to the slightly larger town of North Bend for the night. We ended up getting a fortuitous hitch from a shuttle bus that usually charges to take people that route. Since the driver had no other patrons, he was happy to give us a ride for free!! He dropped us directly off at hiker heaven– all you can eat sushi! Corpse, Thunder and I totally gorged ourselves. Salty doesn’t like sushi, so he got some pizza and met us back at the hotel. I ate 6 rolls and edamame all on my own! Totally worth the $25.
There is no laundromat in town, so we decided to ask the staff at our hotel if they would do our laundry on the premises… Turns out the manager hiked the AT years ago and he was more than happy to help us out! Woohoo! Now for a night of eating, hanging out and spending time with each other before Corpse heads off to Seattle tomorrow.
